Is a toner really necessary?

On my way to an event about 'laser treatment for skin' conducted by a few of Mumbai's renowned aesthetic medical practitioners, I was debating about which toner to buy next. Toners serve a variety of purposes, from taking off any leftover residue (even after you have had a go with your cleanser), exfoliating the skin, calming sensitive skin to leaving a layer of hydration on the skin. I have all four varieties and a couple of favourites in that, but the one I find indispensable is the first type--the skin cleansing one. Let me clarify, I love cleansing and I love my cleansers, but my pores behave like a deep cave with dark recesses that house gunk, which can only be pulled out by a cleansing toner.

I had reached the venue, and the skin docs began talking about general skincare, giving tips and busting misconceptions. While I was enjoying all that, the subject of toner came up, especially for oily skin. My ears perked up and I was eager to hear what the expert had to say.

Avoid toners, he said! Shattering the long-held belief of the holy grail of skincare--Cleanse, Tone and Moisture--he silenced the audience but went on to explain how toners are unnecessary imports from the western world and we Indians do not need them, including oily skin types. What he meant was that we don't need the traditional alcohol-based toners that used to wipe away cleansing creams of the yore. Yes, before face washes came into the picture, women used to use cleansing creams, which were greasy and hence needed an alcohol-y toner to take it all off.

While I wouldn't degrade all toners (like I mentioned above, a few of them have something extra to offer), I agree with the skin doc in that I absolutely hate toners with alcohol. Any self-respecting beauty company ought to throw out such toners because in today's age, cleansers have become advanced thus eliminating the need for a strong-burn-your-skin alcohol-based toner. India is also catching up to the alcohol-free toner trend, with Plum being one of the early adopters.

In my next post, I will share a bit about my current toners, why and how I use them, and a few that are on my wishlist.

Grease be gone: Why blotting papers are the ultimate summer saviours

Keeping in line with the summer theme, here's another product type that is essential for those who live in hot, humid climates. The Blotting Paper. A nifty little pack that I absolutely cannot live without, be it summer or otherwise, but especially during summer.

The concept of a blotting paper is simple--it's made out of absorbent fibres, not paper literally although Clean & Clear make one that is papery/plasticy and absolutely terrible, but I digress. So, good blotting papers are thin soft papers, almost linen-like, that you gently press on the skin and voila! The grease is gone and you're left with fresh-looking matte skin. And I'm not exaggerating; the gratification you get when you see the grease (and sweat) on the paper cannot be underestimated.

It is important to note that the skin needs both moisture and oil. So, depriving the skin of these two essentials in the hope that you won't get oily during the day is a big mistake! Instead, give the skin what it needs so that it doesn't overcompensate for lack of oil--the skin will always produce oil because that is how it functions--it needs oil to protect itself from dryness, environment, etc. But you can use blotting papers to keep the excess oil at bay. 

Most papers contain oil-absorbing agents or are made out of materials such as flax seed, yam or hemp. The Palladio Rice Paper ones contain rice powder, while the Glo Minerals blotting papers are made from abaca tree leaves. The Boscia Clear Complexion ones are dusted with willow bark and bamboo extract. Sadly, the ones available in India don't quite do the job. So, the three blotting papers that I like come from Korea and Japan.

1) DHC Oil Blotting Paper
These were the first ones that I tried and I love them. The pink packaging is cute but can fray over time. The oil blotting paper itself is slightly smaller in size compared to the Innisfree one mentioned below but you get 100 sheets in one pack.

2) Skinfood Natural Fresh Oil Blotting Paper
The Skinfood oil blotting paper made from natural hemp is cheaper than the DHC one and comes in a more practical packaging. There is a rubber-like flip open packet, which keeps the papers secure. Also, you get 100 sheets in one pack so overall, these are my new favourites considering performance, price and packaging.

3) Innisfree Eco Beauty Tool Oil Blotting Paper
These get the job done but come in not-so-great packaging. The oil blotting paper itself has one side textured, which gives a good grip on the face, while the other side is polished smooth, which unfortunately slides on greasy skin. Also, you get only 50 sheets in one pack. So, yeah, will not repurchase these.

The best part about blotting papers are that they are inexpensive (anywhere between 3-5 USD or 180-300 INR) and last a long time. One pack usually contains about 100 papers and depending on your usage, it can last anywhere between one to three months.