Earthwise Beauty Haul - Part I (Skincare featuring Marshmallow Face Cleanser, Cistus and Moonlight Face Mist and Yasuni Face Balm)

I’ve been meaning to write about my Earthwise Beauty haul for quite some time, but did not get around to it until now. Well, better late than never! I should have known that this post would be a long one. Hence, I have segregated it into two parts. The following is Part 1 focusing on the skincare items of this haul. Stay tuned for Part 2, which will focus on the Dandelion Tea and Essences.

BRAND NEW PACKAGING

First off, the Miron glass and the coppery, rose-gold labels in a quirky, fairy-ish font! Ava has retained the mystical quality of her brand through these new labels. And she could not have done a better job than this! While many, including myself, are wistful about the older packaging, I applaud Ava for changing with the times and doing what’s right for her brand. Without the Miron glass packaging, her products would not have made it to brick-and-mortar stores in all their freshness and potency, which is one of the most unique differentiators between Earthwise Beauty and many other brands. Honestly, no other brand that I have tried so far has come close to Earthwise Beauty in terms of freshness. And as far as brick-and-mortar stores go, Earthwise Beauty products have just recently made their debut in one such beautifully curated boutique. So, kudos, Ava! The efforts are paying off.

 

MARSHMALLOW FACE CLEANSER

Next up, the Marshmallow Face Cleanser, previously called Marshmallow Suds. This is such a beautiful cleanser. It is no-fuss with minimal but effective ingredients and super hydrating. It lathers just about enough, which is perfect for me. It’s almost like a Goldilocks situation—too much lather strips my skin, and too less does not feel like it’s working. The Marshmallow Cleanser has hit the right spot for me. The cleanser composition has been tweaked recently, with one or two ingredients switched out or replaced, and I can say that this has definitely improved its scent. The sample I had of the previous formulation did not smell as pleasant as this new one does. It does not smell like a valley of flowers in case you’re wondering but that’s what I like about it. It has an earthy, herbaceous scent with just a tinge of floral.

I use this cleanser twice every day, without fail. I should get a back-up because I cannot do without it. I will either use it as my solo cleanser in the AM or as my second cleanser in the PM. But here’s a novel way to use this cleanser. You know how I like to experiment with my products, either making concoctions or using them differently. So, here’s what I like to do with the Marshmallow Cleanser. As part of my recent experiment to pare down my skincare routine/stash in an effort to be more minimalistic, I'm trying to eliminate the toner step and use this instead. I have been massaging this cleanser on damp skin (after I’m done with my first cleanse typically with an oil or balm) and then wiping it all off with half a cotton pad (half because I’m trying not to generate too much waste). You’d be surprised by the residue on the pad even after doing a first cleanse. I like to do this because I live in a highly polluted city so I’m never satisfied with a single cleanse especially in the PM. If you have this cleanser, try using it this way and let me know how it goes!

CISTUS AND MOONLIGHT FACE MIST

My ultimate hydrating mist ever! I love this to bits and I must thank Andie of @andiethegreenqueen for introducing this to me. The way she had described its scent, I was sold! And I have been a fan ever since. Many mists in the green beauty market are too hydrating for me, sometimes leaving a thin film or an oily look behind. But not this! This absorbs so quickly (it is mostly cistus hydrosol and aloe vera juice and just a tinge of cistus essential oil) thus leaving behind a velvety matte feel. For an oily-combination skin like mine, that’s very important. I will forever have this baby in my stash.

I have reviewed this on my blog previously (click here and here to read) but I reiterate here that this mist is more than a mist to me. I feel calm and composed and ready to face the day when I use this in the mornings. Likewise, in the PM, I feel grounded when I apply this after cleansing. The gem and flower essences used in this mist must definitely be working on me, which is why I feel calm, composed and grounded.

When using this from a spray bottle, I had realised that so much product was getting wasted due to spritzing. And since I did not want to waste even a millilitre of this, I requested Ava to provide me a pump so that I could pump this into my palm and pat it into my skin like a Korean essence. I was right! I love using it this way and no wastage of product whatsoever. I even take any leftover product up to my hairline. It helps to smooth any flyaways! One product and so many ways to use it!

I still have the bottle from the older packaging so if I’m ever in the mood to also use this as a spritz, I know I can. Plus, I love the older packaging so much, I just don’t have the heart to throw it out.

YASUNI FACE BALM

I never thought I would like any other balm except Tigress Face Balm, even if Ava herself came up with one. But I can see why Yasuni Face Balm is such a winner. For the record, I still prefer Tigress but what sets Yasuni apart from many balms on the market is that it’s a treatment balm. I think Ava should have put the words ‘Treatment Balm’ on the label itself, because this does not simply hydrate or lock in moisture. This treats and exfoliates the skin the way many high-end serums do thanks to its enzymatic action. And unlike high-end treatment products that sting the skin, this does none of that. I see every skin type and condition benefitting from using the Yasuni Balm. I saw my clogged pores getting cleaned up by the day, which is not an easy feat. 

When Ava, in one of her Instagram posts, said that one can use this balm as a moisturiser, I was excited. But when I saw the texture of this balm, it appeared like a solid balm (it’s not as juicy as Tigress) and I was confused how this can be used as a moisturiser. After a few seconds of head-scratching, it occurred to me that maybe I need to warm it in the palm of my hands. And so, I did. The balm melts into a light to medium-weight oil due to the heat of your touch and can then be used as a moisturiser. I still prefer to mix a drop of Ferns and Moss into this for reparative effect or a smidgen of Tigress and Farizad’s Veil to make a skincare-sunscreen-treatment product.

I love that it is formulated without essential oils so that makes it apt for sensitive-skin folks. I will admit though that I’m not a fan of its scent, as it reminds me of bitter medicine but when you think of it, that is precisely how it acts on your skin. It’s medicine! I already think of Ava as a medicine woman, and this reaffirms my thinking.

So, that’s it folks! As usual, I have rambled on and on but I can’t help it. When I love something this much, I have to share my thoughts with you, skinsleuth style!

Stay tuned for Part II of my Earthwise Beauty haul. Have a lovely week ahead.

EMPTIES + MINI REVIEWS (Earthwise Beauty, Honua Skincare, Lepaar, Just Herbs)

Nothing like an Empties post to make you feel accomplished, right? After my last Empties post, which was in March this year, I have returned with a few more used-up products along with my mini reviews on them. Most of these products I have reviewed in depth previously on this blog so I'll link up wherever applicable. Nevertheless, if you have specific questions, please ask in the comments below. :)

Hawaiian Beauty Water by Honua Skincare:
My thoughts on this gentle, all-natural liquid exfoliant are mentioned here, but you'd see that my opinion on this exfoliant treatment toner hasn't changed much. I still think that my skin is too resilient to notice any exfoliating effect from this product. That said, it may be a good option for those with sensitive skin, who want to try exfoliation but are feeling unsure about it. After using up half of the bottle's contents, I used the remainder to spritz on my face to prevent certain clay-based masks from drying up too soon. It seemed to work well when combined with other skincare products such as the Earthwise Beauty Frightening Green Mask, Blackstrap Molasses Mask, etc. The Hawaiian Beauty Water has gorgeous ingredients such as hibiscus, coconut water, papaya enzymes, willow bark, witch hazel and more. I only wish it worked on my skin!


Earthwise Beauty Cistus and Moonlight Face Mist:
I love this mist to bits! Previously reviewed here on my blog, the scent of this mist is completely unique and unlike anything else on the market. The floral, honey-like scent laced with a touch of green makes up for a such a soothing ritual, be it in the mornings or at nighttime. In the morning rush hour, this slows me down for a brief few seconds and in the evening, it calms my frazzled, often overworked self. Performance-wise, this hydrates my skin without leaving behind a greasy after-feel, which so many other mists do because of the inclusion of oils. This is yet another product that is free of essential oils. I'm so glad to see Ava repackage this mist into a 100 ml bottle because the 60 ml runs out pretty soon.


Earthwise Beauty Ambrosia del Cerrado:
This was my first bottle of the Ambrosia del Cerrado from Earthwise Beauty and like every other product from the line, this doesn't disappoint. Although Ava describes this as a moisturiser, I think it also has slight treatment-like properties. What I mean is, it doesn't just hydrate the skin but also lightens spots when used consistently over a period of time. In a way, it's a grown-up moisturiser. The colour and the scent are so refreshing, but what I appreciate more are the ingredients and the performance. It's one of the few green beauty products out there that is free of essential oils and therefore safe for everyone to use. The Ambrosia also pairs very well with Earthwise's Ruby Facial Oil (also free of essential oils), sharing not only a few ingredients such as pequi and buriti oils but also the scent profile, obviously due to the same ingredients. I love to mix the Ruby oil with the Ambrosia into an emulsion, which is what I reach for when I'm short on time. My Ruby oil is long gone but this moisturiser is still good on its own. I'm currently on my second bottle of this. You can find my review on this here.


Just Herbs Gotukola Indian Ginseng Rejuvenating Beauty Elixir Facial Serum:
Previously reviewed here and here, this is my second-time purchase of this serum. I was blown away by it the first time around, and I'm still blown away by it. The serum is a potent combo of deep yet lightweight hydration (thanks to the Indian Senna seed extract) and brightening (mostly due to liquorice). The only thing one needs to keep in mind is, don't use this as a moisturiser. It is formulated as a serum for a specific reason. The botanical hyaluronic acid in it requires that you top it up with a regular moisturiser otherwise the hyaluronic acid in it will draw moisture out of your skin; the serum therefore needs to be 'sealed in' with something on top of it. Also, if you don't use a moisturiser on top of this, it leaves a slightly sticky feeling (similar to conventional hyaluronic acid) which is not pleasant.


Lepaar Skin Precious Face Oil:
Included in a Boxwalla beauty box last year, this face oil is lovely, with a lush scent and feel and a performance that matches its aesthetic value. When I used it alone for several days (as recommended by the brand) I noticed it gave a brightening effect similar to the Earthwise Beauty Ruby Face Oil (also included in one of the Boxwalla beauty boxes). While the Ruby has a spicy, tropical scent, this has a fruity and cookie-like vanilla-ish scent rounded off with a grown-up frankincense. I also like to mix this with the Ambrosia del Cerrado and sometimes even with the Farizad's Veil sunscreen powder. Although it doesn't have the tint of the Ruby oil, it doesnt't leave too much of a white cast despite that. While the Ruby is more easily available, I don't see the Lepaar products stocked at too many online retailers.


Earthwise Beauty Sungod Mask:
This powdered mask is quite unsual. Ava's intent behind this was to create a skincare product to address overexposure to sun and skin aging through the use of sun-reminiscent botanicals. While I loved the glow it gave me, I don't think I used it long enough to notice any remarkable effects, considering I had a sample jar, which lasted 2-3 uses. Ava does mention on her site though that this is not a short-term brightening mask but rather a long-term skin investment.


That's it, folks! I'm quite happy that I have cleared up some more space on my skincare shelf. These two empties posts have also been a good exercise in figuring out the overall patterns in my usage of skincare and my preferences. I am now more aware of what I tend to lean towards in terms of ingredients, scents and textures, and what my topmost priorities are from a skincare product. My ultimate goal is to reduce the amount of skincare that I buy; less is definitely more. This also means fewer Empties blog posts in future (hopefully). 😃

REVIEW: Favourite and not-so-favourite hydrating toners

After what seemed like an endless chain of reviews going over each and every toner I own—from the wiping-off-the-remnant-of-your-cleanser to the serious heavy-duty exfoliating toners, I want to put the spotlight on a recent favourite category within the toner family—the spray type hydrating ones.

Hydration is what keeps our skin soft, supple, elastic and young. Even if you have oily skin like I do, you need to keep it hydrated to avoid dehydration (duh!), a major cause of skin aging and other issues like acne. And I can say this without batting an eyelid that my skin has never looked this young, primarily because I keep it hydrated.

Hydration is also essential if you are using facial oils or facial balms in your skincare routine. Ever since I started incorporating specific oils and balms in my routine, hydrating toners have become a necessity. This is because oils do not readily get absorbed into the skin; they need a carrier to get absorbed completely. This carrier is water or other humectants like aloe vera. For more information on moisture and humectants, check out this blog post that I wrote last year.

The idea therefore is to spray a hydrating toner on clean damp skin or pat in an essence-like product (more common among Korean beauty fans) and then use a couple of drops of facial oil or a smidgen of a facial balm and massage it in. If you do this, there is no need for lotions and creams, which contain emulsifiers (emulsifiers are agents that mix oil and water in a product) and preservatives (necessary to prevent microbial growth since the product contains water). Since facial oils and balms typically don't contain any water, they don't require emulsifiers or preservatives and can give you potent, concentrated ingredients and the highest skincare benefit. This is also a reason why facial oils/balms are more expensive than lotions/creams as they don't contain fillers like emulsifiers and preservatives, which are inexpensive.

Sorry for that segue into why facial oils/balms are important—I might do a separate blog post on them. But moving on, I own several hydrating toners, and after a lot of trial and error, I'm ready to share my concrete thoughts on them. Needless to say, some of these are now my holy grail toners while a few were highly disappointing. If you have specific questions about any of these, please comment below the post and I'll be happy to answer them.

Bon Organics Jasmine Water:

A holy-grail toner for me, this 40 ml modestly packaged bottle may not impress you at first but it's chock-full of the most concentrated and all-organic ingredients. It contains essential oils of Jasmine and Wild Jasmine blended with the extract of distilled Jasmine petals, demineralised water, BON's pure aloe vera gel, essential oil of vanilla (which usually gives me a headache but it's used moderately here), sweet almond oil and vitamin E. The 40 ml size is perfect for taking along on travels or even in your daily handbag. I reach for this toner frequently for a mid-day boost to my skin and also to uplift my mood and shake off lethargy. Most of all, it's the most affordable toner I own. What more can you ask for? Get it stat!

Just Herbs Pomegranate and Mandarin Toner:

Another favourite of mine, this toner is equally good for spraying on a cotton pad and swiping over the face post cleansing as well as spritzing directly on the face. When used on a cotton pad, you'd be shocked to see how much dirt is left behind by cleansers. On a side note, almost all cleansers, no matter how highly raved or conceptually sound, leave behind smidgen of dirt, so this step is essential. This toner contains some of the best ingredients one can hope for: steam distilled orange blossom water (40%), steam distilled tulsi water (30%) -- that's 70% of two great ingredients, in addition to pomegranate extract, mandarin orange essential oil, bitter orange peel extract, aloe leaf juice, Indian senna (a botanical alternative to synthetically-made hyaluronic acid), and more. What I appreciate the most about this toner is its scent of bitter orange, which offsets the sweet scent of pomegranate.

Just Herbs Rose Water:

Contrary to my thoughts shared above, this toner from the same brand was a disappointment. It smells nothing like a rose. Now I'm not expecting it to smell like a bouquet of roses but this one smells downright like rice water. I'm not kidding!

Kama Ayurveda Mogra Water:

Another utter disappointment was this Mogra Water from Kama Ayurveda, which smells like the weakest mogra ever. Halfway through the bottle, there was no scent remaining. It appeared as if I was spraying plain water on my face.

Soultree Pure Rose Toning Mist:

My search for a true rosewater toner led me to this one by Soultree. Again, not sure what's happening here but this toner smells spicy. How is that even possible? The inci list shows some great ingredients such as Rosa damascena (rose) water, Hamamelis virginiana (witch hazel) water, Glycerine, Aloe vera juice and more, but the formulation falls short in performance. I can hardly notice the toner doing anything for my skin, which proves that ingredients are not everything. Even if you source the highest quality ingredients, your formulation still needs to be effective to produce a positive and appealing result. Now, I mainly use this sprayed on a cotton pad to take away any leftover residue after cleansing.

Bon Organics Rose Gulkand:

With that said, I think my search for that perfect rose toner has come to an end. With two recent disappointments (Soultree and Just Herbs rose water toners), I had almost given up on Indian brands. Then, a comment on my Instagram by Nishantaini, the lovely owner of Auroville-based Bon Organics, gave me hope. When I expressed my disappointment with these toners, she asked me whether I have tried the rose water from her line. Her quiet confidence (in her product) was so refreshing, a far cry from most brands that don't bother to connect with customers or really care about meeting their needs. So, during a recent sale event on her webshop, I added the Rose Gulkand toner to my cart, along with a second bottle of the Jasmine Water. You guys know I love that one! When I finally had the rose toner in my hand, I uncapped the bottle and braced myself for the scent to hit me. After spicy and ricy, I did not know what to expect. But you guys...this is it! This is what I wanted. The product name is spot on. If you've ever had 'gulkand', you know what it smells like, a potent earthy rose that is sweet and cooling. This toner is that and more. It not only contains the most genuine and pleasing rose, it also shares many of its ingredients with the Jasmine Water. BON's pure aloe vera gel, demineralised water, essential oil of vanilla, sweet almond oil, and vitamin E in addition to distilled rose petals. I highly recommend you try this out if you are a fan of rose water toners.

Earthwise Beauty Aphrodite Steam:

This is technically not a toner. It's a mix of very specifically selected dried herbs, flowers and leaves which together when steamed help with infusing moisture into the skin while also soothing, nurturing, and repairing the skin tissue. Where the toner part comes in, is the leftover brew that I strain and bottle to be used as a spritz toner. The brew is as moisturising as the steam and is undoubtedly the most hydrating toner I own. Ava, the founder of Earthwise Beauty, is known for her flawless product formulations and deep knowledge about plants, flowers and herbs so I'm not surprised that she created such a potent product. I see this as a staple in my skincare routine.

Earthwise Beauty Cistus and Moonlight Face Mist:

Another gem from Earthwise Beauty, this mist has met with mixed reviews and I can understand why. Where majority of skincare users love scents of rose and jasmine in their toners, this one stumps you with its full-blown honey scent. When I smell this, I get a rich sweet honey scent with something at the back almost like a sharp green note. I cannot describe it clearly. Honey reminds me of medicines -- when I was a child, my folks used to mix honey with crushed pills/tablets to help me swallow the otherwise bitter mixture comfortably. Not a pleasant memory! Anyway, even after knowing about the toner's honey scent, I bought it for two specific reasons. One, the cistus flower, whose hydrosol makes up the majority of this toner is known to reduce signs of aging and is pore minimising, naturally antibacterial (also anti-viral and anti-fungal), anti-acne, and nurturing. I badly needed a toner with pore minimising and antibacterial properties, yet be non-drying and hydrating. If you look around the skincare market, you'd find toners aimed at acne-prone skin to be drying. Why?! Anyway, reason number two for getting this was the addition of flower and gem essences which turns this toner into an aura mist. Aura mists are an instant aromatherapy treatment that help shift your energy and mood. I highly recommend you read more about this on the Earthwise Beauty website because no matter how well I explain, it would be insufficient and better left to experts like Ava. Now coming to my own experience, despite the honey scent, I find myself drawn to this toner. I keep spritzing it several times a day and also over my head as suggested by Ava in order to benefit from it as an aura mist. It's too early to speak of its aura-repairing properties but I will report back soon. As a skin toner, it checks all the boxes. My skin is left hydrated and soothed. I have also observed subtle pore minimising effects.

Honua Skincare Hawaiian Beauty Water:

This toner while fashioned to be a spritz toner is actually meant to be sprayed on a cotton pad and used as an exfoliant. The blend of hibiscus, coconut water, Hawaiian sugar, rose, witch hazel, willow bark and papaya enzymes exfoliates the skin in the most subtle and natural way. A great concept but my skin is akin to rhino skin. For some reason, I don't see much, if any, exfoliating effect. Another reason could be that I'm used to stronger exfoliants like glycolic acid and salicylic acid so natural exfoliants perhaps fall short. This isn't a negative comment for the toner itself. It's just that my needs are perhaps different from the others. Having said that, I have found a great way to use this to get some noticeable effect. I spritz this 4-5 times, letting each layer dry up before spritzing again. This gives me smooth and what I assume is exfoliated skin. I got this toner as part of the Art of Organics 'Fresh' beauty box back in July 2017 so it was a bargain considering the value for money part.